This picture was posted on Cute Overload a few days ago, and I’ll admit, I’m confused. What exactly is cute about a cat this obese? He certainly has a handsome face, but from the neck down he’s looking more tragic than cute. This cat should probably be 1/3 as wide as he currently is.

Thankfully his family is putting him on a diet, but it begs the question – why, as a culture of cat lovers, do we still have positive associations with the image of the overweight cat, when the negative health consequences of being over weight are so well known?

Many cat owners recognize the risks of an overweight kitty, but others still hold it up as an ideal.

Where does this attitude come from?

The strange perception of fat cats being cute probably comes from a variety of sources.

• Is it the happy fat cat image that is portrayed in the media (Garfield et al)?
  
• Is it lack of education by veterinarians and organizations that adopt out cats (shelters, pet stores, breeders etc) to new owners?
  
• Do cat owners lack the ability or education to distinguish between muscle mass (healthy weight) and fat mass (unhealthy weight)? Or even between a cat looking “fat” because of dense fur, vs a cat being fat because it is carrying excess weight?
• Do people just fail to make the connection that obesity is a health issue that crosses species lines?
  
• Have pet food manufacturers provided misinformation about cat health and appropriate feeding?
• Are cat owners, unable to manage their cats weight, assuaging their guilt and negative feelings about this failure by attributing positive traits to obesity, thereby making it seem “not as bad”?

I believe all these are contributing factors to the “cute fat cat” perception.

Why should we care?

Even if we know that being obese is bad for our kitties, it’s much easier to ignore the very real dangers of obesity if we have a positive aesthetic association. We’re more likely to take our own cats’ weight less seriously and we’re less likely to discuss the inherent problems when the topic of fat cats comes up with other cat owners who may be less educated or aware.

So what can we do?

As a cat owner you can:

• monitor your cat’s weight,
• put your fat cats on a diet,
• discuss your experiences with dieting and health problems caused by feline obesity with other cat owners,
• contact cat food companies and demand that they put better feeding guidelines on cat food packages & provide accurate information about cat nutrition,
• learn to determine if your cats are at a healthy weight through observation,
• discuss weight concerns with your vet,
• don’t glorify obesity by sharing images without discussion or expression of concern.

As a shelter volunteer or worker you can:

• talk to the public and other volunteers about cat nutrition,
• talk to potential owners about the special needs of over weight cats,
• ensure that new owners of over weight cats are prepared to take the necessary steps to bring their new cat’s weight down,
• educate others about the dangers and health risks of feline obesity,
• show potential owners the consequences of obesity that some of the shelter cats are experiencing (poopy bottoms, mats, arthritis, daily medical treatment required for diabetic cats etc)
• correct misconceptions that fluffy, cobby or large cats are “fat”,
• correct misconceptions that fat cats are “big boned” or “muscular”.

As a veterinarian you can:

• make sure your clients understand the dangers of feline obesity,
• determine your patient’s ideal weight so that their owners have a baseline,
• teach your clients how to use their hands and eyes to determine if their cat’s weight is changing,
• teach your clients how to use their bathroom scale to weight their cat,
• provide feeding guidelines based on what your clients are feeding, and make recommendations on switching to a more appropriate diet if necessary,
• make sure your clients understand the seriousness of obesity and how important it is to be persistent in reaching and maintaining ideal weight,
• promote the benefits of a healthy cat.

We live in a society that has a tendency to glorify unhealthy extremes and ignore the underlying dangers of things we consider aesthetically pleasing. Changing cultural attitudes isn’t easy, but we can start by changing our own and promoting the beauty that comes with good health.

Many cats love to chew on plants every now and then, and grass is a nice, safe offering. If you have a yard the warm months offer a veritable buffet of greens, but even during the winter that you can easily grow grass in your own home. Clover loves chewing on and rolling in her grass.

Cat Grass Kits

One option for growing cat grass in your home is to purchase an all-in-one,  ready-to-grow kit. These often consist of a small plastic tray filled with a mix of seeds and moisture absorbing granules. You simply add water to the package, stir and put it in the sunlight.

I tried one of these kits that contained crystals that turned into a gel when wet. I have to give it an A+ for convenience and the grass did grow nicely, but unfortunately before the grass grew long enough a white fluffy looking mold started to grow on the gel substrate. Since I wasn’t sure about the safety of the mold the whole thing got dumped out without ever being offered to the cats.

There are other cat grass kits that have a different growth medium, such as vermiculite or potting soil that might provide better results. I haven’t tried any other kits – instead I decided to grow my own.

Your Own Easy Growing Set Up

I quickly, easily and cheaply put together my own cat grass growing set up with the following items:

• Seedling growing tray: I got the flat kind (instead of the ones divided into cells).  They’re about 12×24 inches and cost less than $2.
• Potting soil: Your basic indoor potting soil. You don’t need a lot – a small bag from the dollar store would probably do.
• Seeds: Many seed companies sell packets of cat grass seed. You can also use wheatgrass seed from your local health food store or just grab a handful of regular grass seeds (just make sure it’s not a mix that contains lots of chemicals.)

Just spread the soil in the tray, cover with seeds (make the seed cover fairly dense  so that you have a nice thick growth of grass), water and put in the sunlight. In a week or so you’ll have a nice patch of grass for nibbling.

You’ll want to keep the cats out of the grass when it’s just starting to sprout so they don’t kill the new grass, and you’ll definitely want to keep the cats out of the bare soil so that it doesn’t get turned into a new litter box. Once there’s a good amount of growth you can let your cats have the tray. Water every few days and trim back any blades that are starting to get brown.

With this set up you get a nice big patch of grass – large enough for a cat to lounge in, which Clover thoroughly enjoys. It’s a little patch of summer when it’s too cold to go out in the yard.

More Easy Cat Friendly Plants

Another popular plant with the cats and one that is easy to grow is the spider plant. Plantlets from a full grown spider plant can easily be potted and grown. Check with your friends or on Freecycle to get yourself a plantlet for free.

Catnip, part of the mint family, is also fairly easy and will spread naturally. It’s easiest to buy a bedding plant rather than trying to grow from seeds. Cats that enjoy catnip may seek out even the tiniest sprout and chew it or roll on it, killing it in their enthusiasm.

Photo by Woopidoo2.

I keep hearing about people getting their cats declawed or cat owners casually talking about their plans to have their cat declawed. While the idea of declawing a cat causes me great outrage, what upsets me even more is that these cat owners are almost invariably ignorant of what the procedure actually involves – they think declawing is okay because they don’t know any better.

While the general public may be excused for not knowing what declawing is (really, could anything sound more innocuous than “declaw”?) I consider it inexcusable that anyone who has had a cat declawed or is planning to have their cat declawed does not fully understand what the procedure is and the potential negative side effects.

Some questions for the vets

So, veterinarians, why are you declawing cats without having a serious discussion with your clients before hand?

Why are you performing an elective procedure, that is so painful and cruel that almost every country in Europe has forbidden it, without making sure the owners of these cats can make an educated decision?

Why are you not ensuring that cat owners have tried and exhausted all other options for modifying undesirable scratching behaviour before consenting to declaw surgery?

I’m sure some vets find declawing to be a lucrative business – perhaps money is a motivating factor?

I’m sure others are concerned about alientating people by questioning a client’s request for declaw surgery or trying to open up a discussion about it. I also think that that is absurd. I often hear of vets being very vocal in their disapproval of other choices made by pet owners and yet their practices aren’t going out of business for lack of clients.

And ultimately, as the veterinary professional it is your responsibility to make recommendations that are in the best interests of the animal and to help pet owners make informed decisions. It is your responsibility to act ethically.

Some questions for cat owners who have declawed/are considering declaw

And cat owners – why are you not educating yourself about a major surgical procedure?

Why would you consider a major elective procedure without knowing anything about it and without asking your vet a single question about what will be done or what might happen afterward?

Have you made a genuine attempt to address scratching behaviour before considering declawing, or did you jump to declawing as a “easy” solution?

As a cat owner it is your responsibility to make good, informed decisions for your cat. You are all they have and their life and wellbeing is in your hands. Requesting a procedure that is painful, cruel, irreversible and often results in other behavioural issues is not responsible pet ownership.

As a cat owner you also must be willing to accept and manage natural cat behaviours. This doesn’t mean letting your cat destroy everything in your home or injure your family – it means taking the time and effort to train your cat, to channel natural behaviour so that it is not destructive and to understand & work with your cat’s fundamental nature to create a situation where you can both live happily.

Mutilating your cat to save your couch is just bad pet ownership. Doing it out of ignorance is tragic.

Don’t let ignorance hurt cats

Ultimately, ignorance is inexcusable and the damage done to cats out of ignorance is permanent. Almost every single person I’ve talked to who has been educated about what declawing is has expressed their shock and revulsion at the realities of the procedure. Vets – take the time to educate your clients and help them make responsible choices. Cat owners – take the time to educate yourself and do what is right for you and your cat.

Watch for upcoming articles with more on declawing – what it is, why it’s harmful, why cats need their claws, declaw alternatives and fixing undesirable behaviour without harming your cat.

Declawing resources:

• http://www.declawing.com/
• http://www.de-clawing.com/

Giving a cat a bath. Thankfully mostly unnecessary, the very idea evokes images of angry, bedraggled cats; soaking wet, bleeding humans and shredded shower curtains. But, this occasional task doesn’t have to be scary or painful.

Before you give a cat a bath, first make sure they need it. Generally cats do an excellent job of keeping themselves clean and don’t need to be bathed (in the 12 or more years we’ve had the family cats, most have only needed to be bathed once.) However, if your cat has stopped grooming and is looking excessively dirty or oily, has excess poop or urine on their bottom, is unable to reach certain areas to groom properly, or has gotten into a substance that should not be licked off, then it might be time to consider a bath.

Before bathing it is important to brush your cat thoroughly and remove any knots or mats in their coat. These will be much harder to remove after they have been wet, and wetting may actually tighten them. Clipping claws prior to bath time is also recommended.

What you’ll need

Get your supplies together and get prepped before you even bring the cat into the picture. I recommend the following equipment for a safe and happy bath experience:

• 2 medium-sized containers, at least one that is shallow (empty litter pans work well)
• 1 small container for scooping water (a small bowl or large mug, something non-breakable)
• 3-4 bath towels
• 1 face cloth
• cat-appropriate shampoo
• space heater (optional)
• blow drier (optional)

Once you’ve gathered your supplies, you can start your prep.

Before you bring in the cat

If you have a shower curtain, either remove it or tie it back securely. You don’t want your cat climbing it. Put on clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and wet, and remove items from around the tub.

If your bathroom is cold, turn up the heat or plug in the space heater as far away from the tub as possible. The room should be warm so that your cat does not get chilled as she dries.

Place the two medium containers in the bottom of your bathtub and fill with warm (not hot) water. Place your water scoop with your water. We don’t want to run any water while the cat is in the room if it can be avoided, as the sound can be very stressful, so give yourself enough water for the initial wetting and rinsing.

Tie a bath towel to your faucet or grab bars, with the end trailing into the tub. If this doesn’t work, fold the towel and lay it in the bottom of the tub next to your water containers.  The goal here is to give your cat something that they can get traction on and grab on to. The towel will get wet – that’s okay.

Place your dry towels within reach (have one unfolded and ready to go) and put the face cloth and shampoo on the edge of the tub.

Now it’s bath time

Speaking soothingly, place your cat on the towel in the tub, next to the containers of water. Using the scoop gently pour the warm water over your cat, wetting down any areas that need to be washed. If your cat just has a dirty bottom but is otherwise clean, there’s no need to soak her from head to toe. If the whole cat does need washing, wet her from the neck down, but avoid pouring water over her face or into her ears. If your cat is calm, hold her under the ribcage, with your thumb, pinkie and ring finger behind the front legs and your index and middle finger on the breastbone. If she is anxious or trying to get out of the tub, you might find it easier to gently hold her by the scruff.

Once she is wet to the skin, pour a small amount of shampoo onto the area that needs washing and gently massage into the fur. Wash around the anus and genitals but avoid getting shampoo onto the sensitive tissues in these areas.

Rinse the shampoo off using your water scoop. If you are having difficulty getting all the shampoo off, or if your cat has difficult-to-remove dirt stuck to her coat, such as clumps of poop and litter, gently place her in your shallow pan of clean water and submerge the areas that need a more thorough washing. Use the wash cloth to gently pull off clumps or to work out stickier dirty. After removing the majority of the shampoo and dirt, move your cat back onto the towel in the bottom of the tub and scoop water from the other container to rinse off any residue left over. We want to remove all of the shampoo.

Lift your cat out of the tub and place her onto the unfolded towel. Loosely wrap her and towel her dry. This towel will probably become soaked pretty quickly. Discard it and grab your other dry towel and continue to remove as much water as possible from her coat.

You can attempt to blow dry her at this stage but please proceed with caution. Use the blow drier with no heat or on the lowest heat setting to avoid burns, and hold the drier at least 30cm away from your cat’s skin. If she finds the noise of the blow drier too distressing, just let her dry naturally.

Keep her in the warm bathroom until she is completely dry. She may prefer to stay wrapped in the towel or she may want to groom herself. Supervise and ensure she does not get chilled. If she has long hair separating the coat with a comb can help speed drying.

Once your cat is  dry and has vacated the bathroom do your clean up, change into some dry clothes and you’re done. If all went well your cat is clean and you are free of injuries.

I regularly use this method to bathe cats at the Humane Society and haven’t received a single injury during bath time.

All cats can benefit from regular grooming. Regular grooming benefits their physical health though removal of excess hair which they would otherwise swallow, distribution of natural oils through their coat, maintenance of claws and stimulation of their skin. It’s also a good opportunity to interact and socialize with your cat and to do a head to tail check of their bodies for any changes which might indicate injury, disease or parasites.

To make grooming a positive experience for both you and your cat, choosing the right tools is essential. What works well for one cat might not work well for another. Likewise, you may be more comfortable using certain tools. In this entry we’ll go over the available options out there & the benefits.

Coat & Skin

There are a wide variety of tools for grooming your cat’s coat. The texture, density, health and quality of her coat and skin will have a big impact on which tools work best.

1. Metal slicker brush – This is one of the most basic grooming tools and one that you are probably most familiar with. The closely set, hooked metal bristles do a good job of removing loose hair from both short and long haired cats. This type of brush also works well on separating mats that have been loosened up with your fingers or other tools. The sharp bristles can easily irritate skin, so don’t over brush.

2. Plastic slicker brush – These are configured in the same way as a metal slicker brush, but have straight, firm plastic bristles which are spaced out wider than on the metal counterpart. I’m not a fan of plastic slicker brushes, as I’ve found the size of the bristles makes it difficult to effectively work into the coat, and the straightness of the bristles makes it less effective than the metal slicker brush. This might be a useful option if your cat finds a metal slicker brush to hard on his skin.

3. Shedding blade – This is a great tool for lifting off loose hair from short-hair cats, particularly ones with dense coats that shed a lot. It’s particularly helpful for short haired cats who don’t do a great job of grooming themselves because of weight issues or stress. Loose hair will collect around the base of the tail with this tool, so it helps to follow up with the slicker brush to smooth things out and remove hair that you can’t lift away with you fingers.

4. Massaging mitt – This is a nice tool for cats that may not be crazy about being brushed but that enjoy being petted. The soft, rubbery nubs gently remove loose hair and massage the skin without scraping. This is best for short haired cats. Because the backside of the grooming surface is in contact with the palm of your hand, it’s easily to pick up small signals of discomfort from your cat and respond accordingly.

5. Massaging brush – One of my favourite tools, the large, rubbery nubs work best on cats with short or coarse hair, that do not have a very dense undercoat. Since the tool is soft, it can be use fairly firmly and feels pleasant on the skin and muscles. This tool is best used in conjunction with a slicker brush or deshedding tool – while it does a great job of moving loose hair, it doesn’t always stick to the nubs very well, and may collect around the hips. This is also a really good choice for cats that generally prefer not to be brushed. I’ve found that many cats that dislike other brushes are fine with this type.

6. Deshedding tool – This is an excellent brush for cats with a dense undercoat. The closely set tines remove an amazing amount of hair, but be careful of over brushing. It doesn’t do such a great job on cats with a sparser (or no) undercoat, and doesn’t grab on to the coarser hairs of the upper coat. The fine tines may have a hard time with an undercoat that is matted or hasn’t been brushed recently.

7. Rake – Much like the deshedding tool, this works best on a dense undercoat. The short, widely spaced tines are easy to work deep into the coat and does a great job of removing hairs which have loosened but are stuck in the undercoat. This is one of my favourite tools for grooming long haired cats.

    

    

8. Comb – Very similar to a rake, except that the tines are held at a different angle. A comb is ideal for tails, cheeks and chest ruffs on long haired cats. The comb is also great for working through loose mats, though always be careful about pulling at the skin.

    

    

9. De-matter – This tool has short sharp blades with blunt tips. It can be worked into a stubborn mat to cut it apart and make it easier for the mat to be separated. It’s a great tool, especially for long hair cats who are prone to matting. Use with caution though – even the blunt tips on the blades can cause injury, and the mat should be held firmly at the base to prevent pulling and skin irritation.

10. Chamois – “Hairless” cats should be rubbed down regularly with a chamois to ensure skin oils are properly distributed and are present in the right amounts.

     

     

     

Claws

When trimming claws always make sure your tools are in good condition and that blades are very sharp, to prevent splintering and damage to the claws. Dull tools can cause pain and discomfort and may make your cat wary of having her claws trimmed.

1. Scissor trimmers – Small and easy to manoeuvre, these are my favourite tool for trimming claws. Because they open fully they provide great visibility, which is ever so important to ensure you don’t cut into the quick. Their small size also makes them easy to handle. Lefties might have a hard time finding this style of clipper.

    

2. Guillotine trimmers -A bit bulkier than the scissor style, these do have the advantage of being good for both lefties and righties. Because the cats claw needs to fit through the loop it can be a little more awkward to position properly and the metal loop can obstruct your view. The wide spread between the handles can be a bit awkward if you have small hands.

3. Nail clippers – With no notch in the blade to hold the claw in place be careful of slippage.

    

    

    

    

    

Teeth

It’s easy to overlook regular oral care for your cat, but overall immune health is greatly impacted by the quality of the mouth.

1. Enzymatic toothpaste – Toothpastes made specifically for cats are fine to be swallowed and contain enzymes to help break down plaque and keep the mouth clean. They usually come in appealing flavours such as malt, beef or salmon. Never use toothpaste intended for humans on your cat – it is not meant to be swallowed and may be toxic to your to your cat.

    

2. Standard brush – A tiny version of your own toothbrush. I prefer this over the finger brush, as its small head fits in the cats mouth more easily. The small size also makes it easier to see what you are doing. If you need both hands to hold your cat managing this brush might be a bit of a challenge, so if you use this style of brush and have a difficult cat you might want to have someone assist you.

    

3. Finger brush – A rubbery cap with nubs that fits over the tip of your finger. Not as easy to use as the standard brush, but it does free up the rest of your fingers on that hand to hold the cat’s head or lift the lips.

    

In another post we’ll go over grooming techniques to ensure a comfortable experience for you and your cat.

Product images from amazon.com