ncmarksman25 recently adopted Dark, a rescue cat and surprisingly, also an artist. ncmarksman25 says:

We recently adopted our wonderful cat named Dark… he was rescued from a house fire in North Carolina and was in need of a new home.. so we answered his call! Dark is a very loving cat and my wife and I are very happy to have him in our home… if it wasn’t for our rescue Dark would have most likely been euthanized and wouldn’t have been able to enjoy our love and affection that we share with him… needless to say he’s doing great and very happy to be in a new home!

Just the other day my wife was painting a picture and Dark had stepped in the paint and jumped all over her canvas on our coffee table… he seemed to really enjoy it so we both thought why not have Dark paint on his own canvas’s and sell them on Ebay as a way to give back to the Humane Society and help other animals in need, and thats exactly what we did!

You can see Dark’s painting on eBay and 50% of the proceeds will be donated to the Humane Society of the United States, through eBay Giving Works.

I think this is a great idea to raise money for animals charities and have your rescued cat involved in saving other cats.

What are your creative ideas for helping animal welfare organizations?

Commercial cat toys are bright, pretty and expensive. We love to buy them and we love to offer them to our cats. Yet all too often cats don’t seem to care and will ignore the shiny new toys in favour of chasing a piece of lint on the floor.

Here are a few items you probably have around the house that make great cat toys. My girls love them. As with all new toys, they should be inspected regularly and discarded if damaged, and cats should be supervised when playing with new toys, especially if your cat is a chewer.

1. Cotton Swabs/Q-Tips

   Violet has been fishing these out of the garbage since the day she came home, and they continue to be one of her favourite toys. The swabs made of rolled paper instead of wood or plastic are soft enough to prevent mouth injury and won’t splinter. Supervise your cat when playing with swabs – the cotton on the end can stick to the barbs on their tongue, and some cats may consider the cotton end to be a good snack.

2. Milk Jug Rings

   Pop these off the jug and let your cat go. They work best on hard surfaces like laminate or tile. Throw out any rings that have been chewed or are broken – they’re not the most sturdy items.

3. Toilet Paper Tubes

   Pull off any toilet paper that’s still stuck on, so that they roll nicely. A whole tube makes a fine toy, or you can cut it into a few pieces if the whole tube is a little big for your kitty.

4. Tissue Paper

   A fresh sheet of tissue paper is a safe and entertaining toy that makes a lovely crinkling sound. The type that is slightly shiny on one side seems to be the most popular with my cats. The texture and sound of the tissue paper is very similar to (unsafe) plastic grocery bags, which they make a beeline for any time a plastic bag isn’t put away immediately.

5. Shoelace/String/Yarn

   A piece of string is great for chasing. Dangle it or drag it along the ground and get your kitty moving. Tie a feather, stuffed toy or other item to the end for extra fun.

   *Very important: Don’t let your cat play with string, shoelaces or yarn unsupervised. Cats will often consume string which can result in bowel obstructions. Because of the barbs on a cat’s tongue they may be unable to spit out a piece of string that gets into their mouth, even if they don’t intend to consume it.

6. Cardboard box

   I’ve bought tents and caves and other enclosures, but the good ol’ cardboard box is a perennial favourite. If there is an empty cardboard box in the house, you can bet there’s a cat inside it.

7. Paper bag

   Crinkly and hidey! Cats can’t resist exploring inside and they make great places to stalk the other cats from. Paper bags are great too, because there’s no risk of suffocation like there is with plastic.

8. Ping pong ball

   They’re light, they bounce and they roll. Not all cats care for balls, but for those that do, ping pong balls are a cheap alternative to commercial cat toys, and you may have some kicking around the house.

9. Cloth Grocery Bag

   These big, soft bags are great for hiding or just relaxing in. My girls love to explore the insides of cloth shopping bags and usually settle in for a nap once everything has been thoroughly investigated.

10. Pompom balls

    If you have a craft or sewing box you may have a few of these on hand. Pompom balls make great soft toys. All the rolly joys of a ball, but soft and squishy enough to be picked up. Make sure they are big enough to prevent swallowing.

For those of you who are crafty, we’ll be putting together some easy-to-make cat toys from inexpensive or free items in another entry.

What kind of household items do your cats enjoy? Do you have any household items that have been a hit with your cats?

Photo by Tammy S.

All too often I hear of people who are giving up their beloved family pet because their landlord enacted a new no-pets policy, or because they are moving into a rental property that has a no-pets policy. Less frequently, I also hear of landlords who will allow cats but require that they be declawed.

Before you accept a rental policy that costs your family, disrupts your life and harms your pet, there are a few steps you should take.

Know your rights

Did you know that, as a tenant, you have certain rights? Each area will have its own set of rules and bylaws for tenants and landlords, but don’t just assume that your landlord is following these rules. Make sure you know what your rights are regarding your tenancy and pets before you are forced into doing anything.

For example, did you know that in Ontario your landlord cannot evict you or force you to get rid of your pet unless they are dangerous, causing excess noise, damage to the unit or allergy problems? Even if you signed a lease with a no-pets agreement, they cannot evict you. No-pets clauses are considered invalid under the law and the only way you can be evicted for having a pet is if the Landloard and Tenant Board of Ontario determines that the pet meets one of the above criteria. This means that, while a landlord can choose not to rent to someone who has pets, once you have started your rental and are moved in, they cannot evict you for having pets.

Laws will vary depending on where you are, but don’t let yourself be bullied into disrupting your life or your cat’s life when the law may actually be on your side! Be informed.

Don’t capitulate, negotiate

If local laws will not protect you and your pets, then the next step is not to give up and give in, but to negotiate and educate your landlords.

Most landlords that do not allow pets or that require cats to be declawed have these policies because they are worried about property damage. Noise, allergies and messes in communal areas such as the lobby or front law may also be a factor.

As a responsible pet owner it is worth your while to try to educate your landlord about why these policies are misguided and unnecessary. If you can provide reasonable alternatives so that your landlord can feel that their interests are sufficiently covered you may be able to convince them to change their rental policies.

1. Acknowledge their concerns. Be polite and reasonable and let them know that you understand their concerns and respect their desire to maintain a clean, undamaged building.
2. Explain normal cat behaviour. The people creating policy may be completely unfamiliar with cat behaviour. Explain that cats can easily be trained to use a scratching post instead of the carpet, and that cats instinctively prefer to bury their waste in clean litter rather than depositing it just anywhere. Explain that cats do not typically scratch at walls, doors and trim, and that even an untrained cat is more likely to scratch the tenant’s furniture than destroy the unit itself. Let them know that you will provide a clean litter box and appropriate surfaces for your cat to scratch.
3. Let them know that your cats are spayed/neutered. Explain spaying/neutering eliminates the undesirable cat behaviours that they may be concerned about, such as yowling, territory marking with urine & feces, fighting, and attracting stray cats to the area. Let them know that these behaviours are typical of intact animals and that yours have been fixed.
4. Assure them that your cat will be in a carrier or on a leash any time they are in a public area. Animals running at large can be dangerous and a nuisance. Reassure them that your cat will be kept under control at all times.
5. Explain what declawing is and that it often results in other undesirable behaviour. Many people do not understand what declawing is and have no idea that it may result in other even more undesirable behaviour, like peeing outside the litterbox. Make it clear that declawing is unnecessary and cruel and that if they are concerned about the cat scratching there are alternatives, such as Softpaws, which you would be willing to use.
6. Provide documentation to support your claims. Provide supporting evidence from reputable sources to back up what you are saying. Best Friends Network provides many good resources for tenants who are required to declaw: http://network.bestfriends.org/celebrateclawsnotdeclaw/news/16849.html. If your landlord requires declawing, talk to your vet – they may be able to provide a document or letter supporting your stance against declawing.
7. Offer to pay an additional security deposit. Assure them that while your cat is trained and you do not expect your cat to destroy anything, should something in the unit be damaged by the cat, you will take responsibility for repairing or replacing it. Show that you are serious about this by offering to pay a larger security deposit.
8. Remind them that a responsible tenant is a responsible tenant, and likewise an irresponsible tenant will cause problems even without pets. Their rental agreement should already cover troublesome tenants, such as ones that cause excess noise, disruption or property damage.
9. Offer to provide recommendations on drafting a rental policy that allows pets but protects their building and other tenants. If you can do some of the leg work for them, saving them time and effort, they may be more willing to make changes.

Last resort

If your landlord is unwilling to listen or work with you and insists that you get rid of your pets or declaw, then you have a difficult choice to make. It may be time to consider moving to a more pet-friendly home or if that is not feasible, you may need to re-home your pets. I do not consider declawing your cat to be an acceptable compromise.

Ideally you’ll be able to find a new place that allows pets in its rental agreement. If not, properties that are owned by individuals may provide more flexibility than large rental companies on pet policies – at the very least you may find it easier to get access to someone who has the power to make that decision.

If moving is not an option and you must re-home your pets, do everything in your power to find a new home yourself, rather than dropping your cat off at a shelter. All shelters have an abundance of cats and too few adopters, and your cat runs the risk of being in a cage for an extended period of time or being euthanized if they are not adopted quickly. Use all the resources at your disposal – friends and family, community billboards, Freecycle (if your local list allows) and Craigslist. You’ll feel much better knowing that your cat is going to a home instead of a cage and you will have a say in what type of home your cat goes to.

Contact your local governing body that handles tenant and landlord laws and lobby them to create bylaws that protect pet owners without compromising the safety and integrity of landlords properties.

Through responsible pet ownership and proactively promoting understanding through education we can encourage property owners to set reasonable rental rules and decrease discrimination against pet owners.

Photo by Cynthia Berridge.

Many cats love to chew on plants every now and then, and grass is a nice, safe offering. If you have a yard the warm months offer a veritable buffet of greens, but even during the winter that you can easily grow grass in your own home. Clover loves chewing on and rolling in her grass.

Cat Grass Kits

One option for growing cat grass in your home is to purchase an all-in-one,  ready-to-grow kit. These often consist of a small plastic tray filled with a mix of seeds and moisture absorbing granules. You simply add water to the package, stir and put it in the sunlight.

I tried one of these kits that contained crystals that turned into a gel when wet. I have to give it an A+ for convenience and the grass did grow nicely, but unfortunately before the grass grew long enough a white fluffy looking mold started to grow on the gel substrate. Since I wasn’t sure about the safety of the mold the whole thing got dumped out without ever being offered to the cats.

There are other cat grass kits that have a different growth medium, such as vermiculite or potting soil that might provide better results. I haven’t tried any other kits – instead I decided to grow my own.

Your Own Easy Growing Set Up

I quickly, easily and cheaply put together my own cat grass growing set up with the following items:

• Seedling growing tray: I got the flat kind (instead of the ones divided into cells).  They’re about 12×24 inches and cost less than $2.
• Potting soil: Your basic indoor potting soil. You don’t need a lot – a small bag from the dollar store would probably do.
• Seeds: Many seed companies sell packets of cat grass seed. You can also use wheatgrass seed from your local health food store or just grab a handful of regular grass seeds (just make sure it’s not a mix that contains lots of chemicals.)

Just spread the soil in the tray, cover with seeds (make the seed cover fairly dense  so that you have a nice thick growth of grass), water and put in the sunlight. In a week or so you’ll have a nice patch of grass for nibbling.

You’ll want to keep the cats out of the grass when it’s just starting to sprout so they don’t kill the new grass, and you’ll definitely want to keep the cats out of the bare soil so that it doesn’t get turned into a new litter box. Once there’s a good amount of growth you can let your cats have the tray. Water every few days and trim back any blades that are starting to get brown.

With this set up you get a nice big patch of grass – large enough for a cat to lounge in, which Clover thoroughly enjoys. It’s a little patch of summer when it’s too cold to go out in the yard.

More Easy Cat Friendly Plants

Another popular plant with the cats and one that is easy to grow is the spider plant. Plantlets from a full grown spider plant can easily be potted and grown. Check with your friends or on Freecycle to get yourself a plantlet for free.

Catnip, part of the mint family, is also fairly easy and will spread naturally. It’s easiest to buy a bedding plant rather than trying to grow from seeds. Cats that enjoy catnip may seek out even the tiniest sprout and chew it or roll on it, killing it in their enthusiasm.

Photo by Woopidoo2.

If you’re not familiar with Simon’s Cat, watch below. Simon Tofield, the creator of Simon’s Cat, wonderfully captures the essence and personality of his feline friend. I think anyone who lives with a cat will be able to relate to the wonderfully animated situations.

Watch the other Simon’s Cat shorts here: http://youtube.com/user/simonscat

When you hear about euthanasia numbers in shelters, articles often cite national annual statistics. With national numbers usually in the millions, it becomes difficult to really comprehend and visualize – “millions” becomes an abstract number.

Yesterday, there was an article in the Thunder Bay Source with Animal Services euthanasia numbers for 2008. The numbers were small enough to really wrap my head around but large enough to completely break my heart.

In 2008, 1570 cats were impounded at City Animal Services. Of that number, 109 were adopted, 94 were claimed by their owners and 1,257 were euthanized. That means that for every cat that was adopted, 12 were euthanized because there are too few homes and too few people able to take in another cat.*

The over population crisis

It hurts me to see numbers like this, and just further emphasizes the need to spay and neuter every animal you own.

I know some people feel that it’s okay to allow their cat to have kittens as long as they can find homes for each of them. Unfortunately everyone one of those kittens means one less potential home for strays, surrendered, abandoned and seized cats. It means more more cat in a shelter who will be euthanized instead of adopted.

Unless your cat has a pedigree (and I have mixed feelings about the ethics of breeding cats when there are so many unwanted ones) there is no excuse or reason to allow your cat to reproduce. With far more cats than there are homes, owned cats should not be contributing to the population problem, be it through negligence, indifference or accident.

Perception of shelter animals

A erroneous negative perception of shelter animals often makes it even more difficult to place homeless pets. While some animals are surrendered because of behaviour issues, many end up in shelters because their owners:

• passed away
• moved into a nursing home
• moved to a place that does not allow pets
• developed a new pet allergy
• did not have time for the pet anymore due to changing circumstances
• did not consider their long-term responsibility when adopting and lost interest (sadly all too common with students away from home for university)
• could no longer afford to keep a pet (and issue that has become much more common recently)

Others end up in shelters because:

• their owner could not find homes for an entire litter that they planned to place
• they are picked up as strays
• they are removed from abusive situations

Most shelter animals make excellent, loving pets from the day you take them home. Others, such as those who have been abused, have had minimal contact with humans or have behavioural issues may require more effort or attention, but with time and effort (or some times just a very small, simple change) almost all behavioural and social issues can be adjusted.

Shelter animals make excellent pets. As an added bonus, they shelter animals are usually up to date on their vaccinations and deworming and have been given a clean bill of health. Most are already spayed/neutered or the service is provided through the shelter at a discounted rate.

Make a difference

What can you do to help?

• Spay and neuter your pets – if you haven’t done so already, make plans to do it today.
• If you have room in your home for another animal, go to your local shelter and save a life.
• If you’re not ready for a long term commitment, consider fostering.
• Volunteer at your local shelter.
• Make a donation to your local shelter, spay-neuter program or your regional SPCA.
• Participate in or start a trap-neuter-release program for strays in your area.
• Spread the word – talk to others about spaying/neutering and the pet over-population problem.

Every little bit helps.

* For clarity, these numbers do not include cats taken to the Thunder Bay and District Humane Society, which is a separate, indepenent organization. Animal Services is run by the City of Thunder Bay. The Humane Society is a low kill shelter and does not euthanize healthy animals – only those who are too sick or injured to recover or those who are so aggressive as to pose a serious threat to people. All adoptable animals are kept until they can be placed in a home. The statistics are reflective only of City Animal Services, not of Thunder Bay as a whole.

Photo by Sande Hamilton

For those who feed a raw diet, I’ve created a chart with guidelines for feeding by body weight. It’s recommended to start with 2-4% of body weight per day.

This chart lists body weight in 2oz increments for cats from 3lbs to 22lbs12oz and provides feeding guidelines based on 2, 4 and 6% of body weight. Metric conversions for body weight and food weight are also provided.

Click here to view the spreadsheet as a separate page.

I hope you find this to be a useful resource. Remember – these are just guidelines. Your cat’s individual needs will ultimately determine how much you should be feeding.

Keep watch for more articles on raw feeding.

I keep hearing about people getting their cats declawed or cat owners casually talking about their plans to have their cat declawed. While the idea of declawing a cat causes me great outrage, what upsets me even more is that these cat owners are almost invariably ignorant of what the procedure actually involves – they think declawing is okay because they don’t know any better.

While the general public may be excused for not knowing what declawing is (really, could anything sound more innocuous than “declaw”?) I consider it inexcusable that anyone who has had a cat declawed or is planning to have their cat declawed does not fully understand what the procedure is and the potential negative side effects.

Some questions for the vets

So, veterinarians, why are you declawing cats without having a serious discussion with your clients before hand?

Why are you performing an elective procedure, that is so painful and cruel that almost every country in Europe has forbidden it, without making sure the owners of these cats can make an educated decision?

Why are you not ensuring that cat owners have tried and exhausted all other options for modifying undesirable scratching behaviour before consenting to declaw surgery?

I’m sure some vets find declawing to be a lucrative business – perhaps money is a motivating factor?

I’m sure others are concerned about alientating people by questioning a client’s request for declaw surgery or trying to open up a discussion about it. I also think that that is absurd. I often hear of vets being very vocal in their disapproval of other choices made by pet owners and yet their practices aren’t going out of business for lack of clients.

And ultimately, as the veterinary professional it is your responsibility to make recommendations that are in the best interests of the animal and to help pet owners make informed decisions. It is your responsibility to act ethically.

Some questions for cat owners who have declawed/are considering declaw

And cat owners – why are you not educating yourself about a major surgical procedure?

Why would you consider a major elective procedure without knowing anything about it and without asking your vet a single question about what will be done or what might happen afterward?

Have you made a genuine attempt to address scratching behaviour before considering declawing, or did you jump to declawing as a “easy” solution?

As a cat owner it is your responsibility to make good, informed decisions for your cat. You are all they have and their life and wellbeing is in your hands. Requesting a procedure that is painful, cruel, irreversible and often results in other behavioural issues is not responsible pet ownership.

As a cat owner you also must be willing to accept and manage natural cat behaviours. This doesn’t mean letting your cat destroy everything in your home or injure your family – it means taking the time and effort to train your cat, to channel natural behaviour so that it is not destructive and to understand & work with your cat’s fundamental nature to create a situation where you can both live happily.

Mutilating your cat to save your couch is just bad pet ownership. Doing it out of ignorance is tragic.

Don’t let ignorance hurt cats

Ultimately, ignorance is inexcusable and the damage done to cats out of ignorance is permanent. Almost every single person I’ve talked to who has been educated about what declawing is has expressed their shock and revulsion at the realities of the procedure. Vets – take the time to educate your clients and help them make responsible choices. Cat owners – take the time to educate yourself and do what is right for you and your cat.

Watch for upcoming articles with more on declawing – what it is, why it’s harmful, why cats need their claws, declaw alternatives and fixing undesirable behaviour without harming your cat.

Declawing resources:

• http://www.declawing.com/
• http://www.de-clawing.com/

Giving a cat a bath. Thankfully mostly unnecessary, the very idea evokes images of angry, bedraggled cats; soaking wet, bleeding humans and shredded shower curtains. But, this occasional task doesn’t have to be scary or painful.

Before you give a cat a bath, first make sure they need it. Generally cats do an excellent job of keeping themselves clean and don’t need to be bathed (in the 12 or more years we’ve had the family cats, most have only needed to be bathed once.) However, if your cat has stopped grooming and is looking excessively dirty or oily, has excess poop or urine on their bottom, is unable to reach certain areas to groom properly, or has gotten into a substance that should not be licked off, then it might be time to consider a bath.

Before bathing it is important to brush your cat thoroughly and remove any knots or mats in their coat. These will be much harder to remove after they have been wet, and wetting may actually tighten them. Clipping claws prior to bath time is also recommended.

What you’ll need

Get your supplies together and get prepped before you even bring the cat into the picture. I recommend the following equipment for a safe and happy bath experience:

• 2 medium-sized containers, at least one that is shallow (empty litter pans work well)
• 1 small container for scooping water (a small bowl or large mug, something non-breakable)
• 3-4 bath towels
• 1 face cloth
• cat-appropriate shampoo
• space heater (optional)
• blow drier (optional)

Once you’ve gathered your supplies, you can start your prep.

Before you bring in the cat

If you have a shower curtain, either remove it or tie it back securely. You don’t want your cat climbing it. Put on clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and wet, and remove items from around the tub.

If your bathroom is cold, turn up the heat or plug in the space heater as far away from the tub as possible. The room should be warm so that your cat does not get chilled as she dries.

Place the two medium containers in the bottom of your bathtub and fill with warm (not hot) water. Place your water scoop with your water. We don’t want to run any water while the cat is in the room if it can be avoided, as the sound can be very stressful, so give yourself enough water for the initial wetting and rinsing.

Tie a bath towel to your faucet or grab bars, with the end trailing into the tub. If this doesn’t work, fold the towel and lay it in the bottom of the tub next to your water containers.  The goal here is to give your cat something that they can get traction on and grab on to. The towel will get wet – that’s okay.

Place your dry towels within reach (have one unfolded and ready to go) and put the face cloth and shampoo on the edge of the tub.

Now it’s bath time

Speaking soothingly, place your cat on the towel in the tub, next to the containers of water. Using the scoop gently pour the warm water over your cat, wetting down any areas that need to be washed. If your cat just has a dirty bottom but is otherwise clean, there’s no need to soak her from head to toe. If the whole cat does need washing, wet her from the neck down, but avoid pouring water over her face or into her ears. If your cat is calm, hold her under the ribcage, with your thumb, pinkie and ring finger behind the front legs and your index and middle finger on the breastbone. If she is anxious or trying to get out of the tub, you might find it easier to gently hold her by the scruff.

Once she is wet to the skin, pour a small amount of shampoo onto the area that needs washing and gently massage into the fur. Wash around the anus and genitals but avoid getting shampoo onto the sensitive tissues in these areas.

Rinse the shampoo off using your water scoop. If you are having difficulty getting all the shampoo off, or if your cat has difficult-to-remove dirt stuck to her coat, such as clumps of poop and litter, gently place her in your shallow pan of clean water and submerge the areas that need a more thorough washing. Use the wash cloth to gently pull off clumps or to work out stickier dirty. After removing the majority of the shampoo and dirt, move your cat back onto the towel in the bottom of the tub and scoop water from the other container to rinse off any residue left over. We want to remove all of the shampoo.

Lift your cat out of the tub and place her onto the unfolded towel. Loosely wrap her and towel her dry. This towel will probably become soaked pretty quickly. Discard it and grab your other dry towel and continue to remove as much water as possible from her coat.

You can attempt to blow dry her at this stage but please proceed with caution. Use the blow drier with no heat or on the lowest heat setting to avoid burns, and hold the drier at least 30cm away from your cat’s skin. If she finds the noise of the blow drier too distressing, just let her dry naturally.

Keep her in the warm bathroom until she is completely dry. She may prefer to stay wrapped in the towel or she may want to groom herself. Supervise and ensure she does not get chilled. If she has long hair separating the coat with a comb can help speed drying.

Once your cat is  dry and has vacated the bathroom do your clean up, change into some dry clothes and you’re done. If all went well your cat is clean and you are free of injuries.

I regularly use this method to bathe cats at the Humane Society and haven’t received a single injury during bath time.

With the new year upon us, we find ourselves making resolutions for 2009 (I know we’re already into January, but it’s not too late!)

Here are 5 resolutions for a happier, healthier life with your cat. If you already do these then good for you. If not, add one or all of them to your list of resolutions – your cat will thank you.

1. Get active

   Cats may love to sleep and lounge around the house, but physical activity is just as important for kitty as it is for you. Even a few minutes of energetic playing each day will keep muscles strong and burn off calories. Playing is also a great way to bond with you cat.

   Don’t have a lot of time? Get a toy on a long stick or string, like a feather duster or fishing rod, and spend 15 minutes getting your cat going. With these kinds of toys you can even play with kitty while you sit on the couch and watch TV.

2. Eat better

   We all know the importance of good nutrition for ourselves, but how much thought do you give to your cat’s diet?

   Resolve to do a nutrition review this year – really look at what goes into the food you feed your cat, and if it’s not optimal, switch to something better.

   While all commercial cat foods claim to be nutritiously complete, not all cat food are created equal. You might be surprised to learn that even the most expensive premium foods, like Hills Science Diet, are not necessarily higher quality.

   Ditch the dry food – they tend to be mostly grain based and not at all appropriate for a carnivore. And, as cats tend to get their moisture from their food rather than drinking, feeding dry can leave your cat in a state of chronic dehydration. Instead, feed a food that is high in moisture – either a high quality canned food or a raw diet. If you’re feeding canned, look for ones that are free of grains and plant material, and that have some type of meat as the first ingredient (rather than a “by-product” or a “meal”.)

3. Better oral hygiene

   A clean mouth helps promote whole body health. Conversely, if your cats mouth is dirty or afflicted with disease, this can have a negative impact on their entire immune system.

   In a dirty or diseased mouth, bacteria can easily enter the bloodstream through irritated and inflamed gums. This puts a huge strain on your cats immune system and can make it more difficult to heal injuries or fight off other illnesses.

   Forget the “dental diet” dry foods out there, because they just don’t work (you don’t clean your teeth by eating a bowl of cereal do you?) Instead, provide your cat with foods that will help clean teeth (a chunk of muscle meat that is too large to swallow whole, or raw edible bones from chicken, mice, rabbit etc all do a great job.) Regular teeth brushing is also a great habit to get into.

   If your cats mouth is already full of plaque or if they’re suffering from gum disease, invest in a proper teeth cleaning at the vet. It may be pricey (because your cat will likely need to be anaesthetized for the procedure) but it’s well worth it. With a bit of regular maintenance, you’ll only have to do it once.

4. Battle the bulge

   Many people have pets that are over weight. While the image of the fat cat may be endearing, excess weight puts your cat at risk for a variety of diseases, such as diabetes, joint problems, respiratory & cardiovascular disease. Overweight cats also are often unable to properly groom themselves, leading to skin irritation, dandruff, matted coats and feces and urine collecting around the anus and genitals. All in all a bad situation for your cat.

   Is your cat overweight? Use your eyes and your hands to check them over. There should be a small amount of fat over the ribs, but you should still be able to feel the ribs with gentle pressure. There should be no excess fat hanging from the belly (loose skin is fine though) and your cat should have a visible waist. The back of the head and along the spine should be well muscled.

   If your cat is over weight, portion controlled meals of high protein, low carb food and regular exercise will help get that weight off. Dr. Pierson has a great article detailing how to put your cat on a diet.

5. Spay or Neuter

   Having your cat altered is one of the kindest things you can do for your cat, yourself and the pet overpopulation problem.

   Spaying and neutering has many great benefits including:

   1. Population control: With thousands of unwanted cats being euthanized every year this is an obvious and important benefit. Even if you are able to find homes for any kittens your cat has, it means one less available home for cats in shelters.
   2. Lowered risk for reproductive diseases: Intact female cats have a much higher risk of diseases such as mammary, uterine and ovarian cancers and pyometria (and infection of the uterus.)
   3. Less aggression: Intact cats are much more likely to fight with other cats. Cats that fight have increased risk of exposure to FIV, FeLV and other communicable diseases. Deep puncture wounds from bites are prone to infection and abscessing and often require vet treatment.
   4. Fixed cats make better pets: Feline sexual behaviour is extremely unpleasant to deal with. From loud calling at night, roaming, territory marking with urine and feces and strong odour, unaltered cats are much less suited to the life of an indoor pet.

   There are plenty of myths about spaying and neutering, but in reality the consequences are overwhelmingly positive and spaying/neutering will benefit you and your cat.